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09
June
2012

The second test print

Alright, I'm finally getting the time to document all of this. I've completely rebuilt and revamped my printer with a new tilt axis, and I was ready to give it another go - read on to see what happened.


I filled the vat with around 1/4" of resin. Notice that I cut off the top lips of the side c-channel pieces, which allows me to use the thumb screws in the tilt assembly to clamp the vat into place.


Lowering the stage into the vat



Ready to begin!


Printing.... Not sure if it's working yet, but I'll find out in a half hour when the print is complete!


Cool action shot


Hey, even if this thing ends up not working again, at least I can say I've made the world's coolest night light!



I just love that awesome green glow.


You can see by the preview on the screen that I'm getting close to being done - I'm trying to print a simple hemisphere for this first test, so the circles get smaller every layer.


Looking up to where the magic is *hopefully* happening!


This should really help to show how the vat tilt assembly is put together.


The coned setscrews are threaded into the right angle bracket and hold the c-channel of the tilt mechanism in place.


Here's a cool side shot that shows how the offset wheel is integrated into the mechanism.


....and... ta-da! wait, what?


That's not exactly the nice smooth hemisphere I was hoping to get. Looks like I'm still having sticking issues with my vat. Back to the drawing board! At this point I'm considering experimenting with PDMS for its oxygen permeability and ability to form a microscopic layer of uncured resin, which would allow me to slide the part to release it. This method was pioneered in the 3D community by Michael Joyce and his very successful B9 Creator printer.


I got a nice burn mark in the silicone from all that.

Comments 

 
0 #9 Chris 2012-10-24 12:13
Indeed, I am busier than I've ever been! Unfortunately, much of what I'm working on right now cannot be published online until it's completed (IP issues), but be sure to check back often to see what else is going on, because things are about to explode! MakerBot has been around since the beginning (with the exception of the RepRap project), and I probably know more about their company than anyone should due to the insane amount of market research I've been doing. But their new Replicator 2 is certainly a great product and a very revolutionary machine! It will no doubt bring the technology even closer to widespread adoption and I'm very excited about the future of the industry. It was great hearing from you; I'll be sure to keep you updated on my future endeavors!

-Chris

Quoting Mitch:
Hi Chris,

Glad to see you are still as busy as ever! I learned of this company at work today and thouht I'd forward. You've probably aready heard of them, but if not, you might like to check out: store.makerbot.com/.../
Take care!
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0 #8 Mitch 2012-10-24 06:57
Hi Chris,

Glad to see you are still as busy as ever! I learned of this company at work today and thouht I'd forward. You've probably aready heard of them, but if not, you might like to check out: store.makerbot.com/.../
Take care!
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0 #7 sam 2012-10-10 10:24
hello
I make my own 3d printer with DLP. I'm looking Arduino firmware for your software. Can you give me?
thank you very much.
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0 #6 Rich 2012-07-16 13:15
I read back at you previous posts and answered my own question. Any word on the odor of the resin? Is it bearable to use indoors? Good luck solving your build base adhesion issue.

Quoting Rich:
Thanks for sharing your 3d printer work. Which solarez resin are you using in these test? The 3d printer resin or have you added dye to the low voc resin? I am interested in purchasing resin and would love to know the characteristics...like odor, etc.
Thanks Chris!
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0 #5 Rich 2012-07-16 13:00
Thanks for sharing your 3d printer work. Which solarez resin are you using in these test? The 3d printer resin or have you added dye to the low voc resin? I am interested in purchasing resin and would love to know the characteristics...like odor, etc.
Thanks Chris!
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0 #4 3DLPrint 2012-07-13 07:28
Hi Chris,
we have all ended up with the first object being a 2D rather than the expected 3D :-D.

To tune it a bit:
place just a VAT with resin and fire up the projector for say 10 sec. Measure the thickness of the piece cured on the VAT bottom. Now lower the stage to half the thickness of the cured resin and fire the projector for 10 seconds. Raise the stage and check if the cured layer is holding well to the stage.

If you have any Q's, contact me for some A's.

Peter
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0 #3 Gary Hodgson 2012-06-23 09:49
Thanks for sharing the photos Chris! It's a huge help seeing what other's are doing, even if the results aren't successful... yet!

Here's hoping you get your stickiness issue sorted!
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0 #2 Bliss 2012-06-11 17:06
I meant,
Could you set up a tray that allows you to swap out the glass for tests ?
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0 #1 Bliss 2012-06-11 17:02
Must be frustrating.
Can't see why it is sticking to the tray rather than the stage.
I have used perfactory machines and the stage is just smooth polished glass.

Could it be the silicone on the tray is too thick/thin too hard/soft ?
Could you set up a stage that allows you to swap out the glass for tests ?
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