Alright, I'm finally getting the time to document all of this. I've completely rebuilt and revamped my printer with a new tilt axis, and I was ready to give it another go - read on to see what happened.
I filled the vat with around 1/4" of resin. Notice that I cut off the top lips of the side c-channel pieces, which allows me to use the thumb screws in the tilt assembly to clamp the vat into place.
Lowering the stage into the vat
Ready to begin!
Printing.... Not sure if it's working yet, but I'll find out in a half hour when the print is complete!
Cool action shot
Hey, even if this thing ends up not working again, at least I can say I've made the world's coolest night light!
I just love that awesome green glow.
You can see by the preview on the screen that I'm getting close to being done - I'm trying to print a simple hemisphere for this first test, so the circles get smaller every layer.
Looking up to where the magic is *hopefully* happening!
This should really help to show how the vat tilt assembly is put together.
The coned setscrews are threaded into the right angle bracket and hold the c-channel of the tilt mechanism in place.
Here's a cool side shot that shows how the offset wheel is integrated into the mechanism.
....and... ta-da! wait, what?
That's not exactly the nice smooth hemisphere I was hoping to get. Looks like I'm still having sticking issues with my vat. Back to the drawing board! At this point I'm considering experimenting with PDMS for its oxygen permeability and ability to form a microscopic layer of uncured resin, which would allow me to slide the part to release it. This method was pioneered in the 3D community by Michael Joyce and his very successful B9 Creator printer.
I got a nice burn mark in the silicone from all that.